Upgraded DS2015xs from 7.0.1 to 7.11 unresponsive after reboot.

6
0
NAS
DS2015xs
Operating system
  1. Linux
  2. Windows
I have had this NAS for several years and never had a problem. I did a manual update about 4 hours ago from 7.0.1 to 7.1.1 and it went through the process to the point of rebooting the NAS. When the NAS booted back up it gives a solid blue power LED but the status LED and LAN LED's just flash green.

What should I do at this point?
 
I have had this NAS for several years and never had a problem. I did a manual update about 4 hours ago from 7.0.1 to 7.1.1 and it went through the process to the point of rebooting the NAS. When the NAS booted back up it gives a solid blue power LED but the status LED and LAN LED's just flash green.

What should I do at this point?
From the point of LEDs there should be no issues. Are you having some issues? If so, what kind? What's going on?
 
From the point of LEDs there should be no issues. Are you having some issues? If so, what kind? What's going on?
So the drive LED's never come on. The drives never spin up. And the NAS is not available either by web or synology assistant. However, if I remove all the drives the NAS boots up and is available.

The drives are still fine however. I am able to pull up the volume by hooking them up to a pc.
 
Pull all drives... Add one SSD... can you create a simple volume?

Not a sure test, but much less load than a houseful of HDDs.

Alright so I did that. It prompted me to install DSM. I went through the steps it rebooted and came back up to this screen. But it does see the drive.


1694801635413.png
 
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Sounds to me that current needed to operate (With HDD’s) exceeds what power supply can (Now) provide! Seeing that it used to work—That points directly at 2 causes:
1. Filter caps have dried out. Replace with low ESR 105 Degree caps.
2. Voltage supplied has decreased, needing higher current, that current supply cannot provide.

If #1, caps should be leaking or swollen.
If #2, if no adjustment pot, most likely component failure.

Now what I did for my 718+ & 2x 720+’s..,
Few weeks after last purchased— bought a replacement from eBay, and removed Synology supply as a spare, presently sitting on shelf!
 
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If you are in the states, and new supply fixes it, and are willing to send bad power supply only to me, I’ll examine it, and if it’s something easy, will attempt a repair. I don’t have that NAS, but should have enough parts to create a load to run it under test.
Would be an interesting project, as I’ve seen multiple posts about supplies failing, and I’ll bet Id have a good shot at fixing it. You’d pay shipping to/from, and cap cost, and, I’d be willing to troubleshoot it and indicate what caps are bad, without replacing caps if you wish! Pics here of what I find also.
If it is successful you’ll have a spare supply.

But, Only if a new supply fixes the issue!
If new supply does not, it obviously isn’t the supply!!
 
Sounds to me that current needed to operate (With HDD’s) exceeds what power supply can (Now) provide! Seeing that it used to work—That points directly at 2 causes:
1. Filter caps have dried out. Replace with low ESR 105 Degree caps.
2. Voltage supplied has decreased, needing higher current, that current supply cannot provide.

If #1, caps should be leaking or swollen.
If #2, if no adjustment pot, most likely component failure.

Now what I did for my 718+ & 2x 720+’s..,
Few weeks after last purchased— bought a replacement from eBay, and removed Synology supply as a spare, presently sitting on shelf!

Ok, I've gone ahead and ordered a new power supply. And if that fixes it I will happily send it your way.

Which capacitors should I be looking at? In the power supply itself?

Thanks for all your help!
 
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I’m assuming you do not have an ESR METER.
Switching supplies have 3 areas with capacitors:
Ac input, Start up, and output

First clean out dust bunnies, verify fan spins. Next, check for bad solder connections and heat spots on PCB. Nothing damning? Continue On!

Next look for swollen or leaky caps on input AC side. CAUTION! Good caps might still hold a charge up to 200v on 120ac in. Replace all you find that way. Check all caps with ESR METER, If dry, replace

If startup caps are dry oscillator won’t start supply is totally dead. Not the case here since it booted without drives, but may not have totally failed. Usually a smaller cap, replacing one more cap not an issue since your inside anyway. Shotgun it.

Next check output caps. I’m assuming this has 3-4 different supplies. Same as before, replace all swollen, leaky caps, those not, check with ESR METER, replace if dry.

Always replace with Low ESR 105 degree C caps of same or greater voltage range if space permits. This can become complicated if mfg used custom parts not available at parts houses. This is more prevalent than you’d think.

Now, if you found burn spots, or caps that leaked, damaging traces or components, (or exploded) on PCB, or components that are obviously burned/bad, enough damage may have been done that it might not be cost effective to continue with repair. In all honesty you win some, you lose some, and you’ll never know until you tear it apart. Yeah, it’s a crapshoot! That’s why I said replace supply first, and if this is salvageable, then you have a spare.

I’ve seen many posts about power supplies, I just think it would be a good challenge to see & examine one. It works, just doesn’t have the current handling capability. If failure is obvious, yet relatively inexpensive to fix, It’s a win. If not, pictures will make it obvious.
$.02
 

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